WHAT TO SEE IN CASTRO IN CHILOé

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Day 10: Santiago de Chile - Puerto Montt - Chiloé - Ancud - What to see in Castro

It is 4:00 in the morning when the alarm sounds, reminding us that we have already left the Atacama Desert and we are back in Santiago de Chile to start the next stage of the trip, starting today with all things what to see in Castro in Chiloé We have scheduled. After a quick shower and picking up the few things we took out last night, we went down to the breakfast room of the Hotel Manquehue Santiago Airport when it is 4:30 in the morning, at which time breakfast starts at this hotel located next to the airport, to be ready at 5 in the morning at which time we booked our transfer with TransVip yesterday, after arriving from our stay in the north of Chile enjoying several tours in San Pedro de Atacama.
Punctual at 5 in the morning they come to pick us up to take us back to the airport to catch the flight that will take us from Santiago from Chile to Puerto Montt, which will be for us the entrance to Chiloé, since there we will rent a car and we will go to this island that they say, it is the most magical in Chile.

Keep in mind that Hotel Manquehue Aeropuerto Santiago only has the free transfer from the airport to the hotel, so to make the transfer from the hotel to the airport you have to pay 3000CLP per person, unless you have made the reservation through Booking and you are Genius, which in this case both routes are included.

Once in the transfer, once inside we confirm that it is not TransVip, if not another company of which we do not see the name, in less than 10 minutes we are already in the terminal of the airport of Santiago de Chile where we will fly today with Sky Airline A new airline on our trip that we will try to see how about this flight and some futures we have on this trip to Chile and Easter Island to see how it works.
Being Christmas day, we imagine that there will not be too many people either on the road or at the airport, having to be practically alone at the time of check-in, but no, it's the opposite, finding endless lines at the Sky Airline counters, since this company has several flights a day, to different destinations, that leave between 6 and 7 in the morning, so all the passengers of these flights have gathered in the queues, touching us to wait practically an hour until we It is our turn.
This is something to take into account especially if you come with the right time, since there are times when the billing is done very quickly, as we did the other day with LAN when we flew from Santiago de Chile to Calama, and on other occasions , like today, that you have to queue a lot, so it is preferable to come with the two hours in advance that they ask to avoid surprises and make sure you do not have problems.

Once we leave our bags, we access the boarding gates in time to have a coffee and board the flight that will take us to this other destination that we are looking forward to meet and that creates an immense curiosity, since we have read great opinions But on the other hand they have also told us that we are going too many days and that it is not as beautiful as they say. We will have to wait a few hours to meet in Chiloé and start discovering this island visiting the places what to see in Castro that we have targeted as essential in the city.

Flight from Santiago de Chile to Puerto Montt

After a much more comfortable flight than we expected, considering that Sky Airline is a low cost company, we arrived on time to Puerto Montt when it is 8:30 in the morning, approaching first to find our luggage and pick up our car from rental in Chiloé that we have contracted with the Chilean agency, through Rentalcars.

Once the luggage is collected, we realize that this agency does not have an office inside the same airport, since we find a girl with a company sign that is waiting for us to take us in a small bus to the Chilean offices, which They are about five minutes from the airport.

Car rental in Chiloé or Puerto Montt

To travel or visit Chiloé we have several options, traveling by public transport, rental car or excursions from Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas. Without hesitation, if it fits in your budget, the price is approximately 60-65 euros a day, we would opt for the second option, both for freedom of movement and schedules, since traveling by car will allow you to access places where to do it by public transport it would take a long time.
If you do not want to rent a car or do not have much time you can book this day trip to the island of Chiloé with a guide in Spanish or this excursion that in addition to Chiloé includes seeing the Puñihuil penguins.

More practical information to prepare your trip to Chile
- 10 essential tips for traveling to Chile
- 10 amazing places to see in Chile
- Best travel insurance for Chile

In the case of the rental car we also have two options: rent the car directly in Puerto Montt or go by public transport to Chiloé and rent it there. In our experience, we would definitely opt for the first option since you save a lot of time and it also allows you to make some intermediate stop as we will.
As we have said before, we reserve the car through Rentalcars, the company we use whenever we rent a car. We commented that we wanted a small car, but we really have to say that the car that Chilean gives us is excessively small, although we already knew that more or less when we saw the photos, but what does surprise us is the exterior and interior aspect of the car, which we have to say, is a real mess.
Even the girl makes an exhaustive control of all the blows she has and being so many, we have to help her to finish as soon as possible, in addition to making sure that none is left so that we do not have any problems on our return.
Although after the 5-day experience with the rental car in Chiloé we can say that the car has gone perfect, it is true that we would not rent with this company only for the condition of the car and we would book through Rentalcars with another that offered us a newer car.
Something that must also be taken into account is that you are retained on the 350000CLP credit card, something that although they indicate it to you at the time of booking, it is worth taking into account.
And as an extra we told you that they warned us not to leave anything in the car, since in recent times there have been many robberies in Chiloé. In our case, during all the days we were on the island we did not feel at all insecure, but quite the opposite, so we understand that it is more for safety and for avoiding problems than for being something habitual.

With the car already checked and the photos taken, to have a proof of the state of the car when we return it, we leave at 9 in the morning from Puerto Montt on the way to Pargua, the place where we will take the ferry to Chiloé and from where we will have 30 minutes to Ancud, the place where a unexpected encounter With whom we will celebrate this Christmas day.

With a fairly gray day we are moving away from Puerto Montt, encountering much greener landscapes and more clear skies as we approach Chiloé that at times remind us of the landscapes we saw on the trip to The Cotswolds and that They start to give us a snack of what is to come through a toll where we pay 1850CLP to continue our journey, practically without crossing anyone, from Puerto Montt to Chiloé.

Road from Puerto Montt to Pargua

Upon arriving in Pargua when it is 10:10 in the morning, we find that the ferry to Chiloé It is on the shore, so we entered directly, we left our car in the place where they indicate us and after paying 11900CLP for the car and ordering a couple of coffees in the cafeteria service, we put a polar because the temperatures They have descended considerably and we enjoy views that are already worth the trip.

Pargua

Ferry to Chiloe

Crossing the Pargua Canal

On the way between Pargua and Chiloé it takes us about 20 minutes that we take advantage of to enjoy the landscape, with a warm coffee in our hands and when it is 10:45, we return to the car to put on another jersey and start the route again with the car of rent in Chiloé, to reach Ancud, where we have met Cristina and Carles from WeTravel.cat, who are going around the world, and with whom we have agreed on days in this magical island, taking advantage to eat together, in addition to spending a good time in the area catching up and above all, to envy the super trip they are doing.

Coffee on the ferry from Pargua to Chiloé

Pargua Channel Skies

Initially we expected to arrive later in Ancud, but upon arriving on time with the flight from Santiago de Chile to Puerto Montt, do the paperwork of the fast car rental and find no traffic, in the end we arrive at Ancud when it is a little after 11 in the morning, so without thinking too much and not to rush Cris and Carles, we decided to take advantage to give A tour of Ancud, a visit that we initially had not scheduled on this trip to Chile for free.

Road to Ancud

Ancud is a town of Chiloé, unfortunately known for the damage it suffered in the 1960 earthquake, in which it destroyed much of the city, taking much of its palafitos and buildings. Today is fully recovered, although the memory of its tragedy remains in the memory of its inhabitants.

Newcomers to Ancud

We make the first stop at the Fishing Pier where we begin to see what awaits us in Chiloé, since we only took a few minutes here and this island has already hooked us. We do not know if it will be for the good weather with which he has received us, something strange since it usually rains a lot, or because of the atmosphere we perceive, something that already makes us assume that we will take great surprises and that this will become another place in the one that we wouldn't mind spending a little while.

Ancud Pier

After being a few minutes in this area of Ancud we approached with the car to the Plaza de Armas, where we see the first of the Chiloé churches, so characteristic and one of the reasons why we wanted to visit this magical island of Chile.

Main Square and Church of Ancud

And being here, on Christmas Day, in the Plaza de Armas de Ancud, in Chiloé, is when one of the anecdotes of this trip to Chile and Easter Island begins, which we are sure, we will not forget.

Earthquake in Chiloé and evacuation by tsunami warning

We are right in our Plaza de Armas de Ancud taking pictures when suddenly the mobile begins to ring, with a special sound that simulates a kind of siren, while the screen shows us a series of messages in which a "tsunami evacuation".

Tsunami Warning Evacuation Messages

Initially we thought it was a type of simulation, at no time we thought it could be Something real, so without giving more importance we continue walking and taking photos until a few seconds later the sirens of the square begin to sound and we see how the cars accelerate and begin to climb up the street parallel to the square, at the same time that we start to see how people leave the church and shops running.
In that moment when we realize that this is not a simulation, so we take a run, practically without talking to each other, to get to the car and instinctively start following the cars that go in front of us, always following a direction We see that it is taking us to the highest part of the city, while many of them stop to pick up people who run to the highest places.
After several minutes circulating, we see that we have arrived directly at the place that firefighters and police have taken as a reference and meeting point, so we parked in the middle of the street, while checking through the internet what we intuited: there has been an earthquake of 7.6 degrees with an epicenter in Quellón just 160 kilometers from where we are now.

Earthquake in Chiloé

- El Espectador: Isla Grande de Chiloé incommunicated after Chile earthquake
- 24h: Evacuation in Ancud
- El País: Chile cancels tsunami warning
- Chiloé Earthquake 2016

We will not deny that something scared, we directly approach a fire department to explain a little what has happened and what we should do, in addition to helping a couple of couples of French travelers who do not understand Spanish and do not know exactly what has passed.
At all times, both firefighters and the police assure us that we should not worry, since we are in a safe area, but that we cannot move from here, since the first wave is expected to arrive at 12:48 noon.
After talking a couple of times with Cris and Carlos and commenting with the firefighters that their cabin is not in a safe zone in case of a tsunami, they, right at their landlord, decide to come to the area where we are, something we have to say , pallia in some way the nerves and is that although it seems a lie, these types of situations, if shared with more people, seem to be more bearable.

Sea views from the Ancud security zone

Once we are all together and after an hour they begin to tell us that nothing is likely to happen, since the alert is expected to be deactivated, but for the moment we must wait for it to be official.
It is at this time that we begin to relax and begin to explain our experiences in the event, especially when we verify that there have been no personal damages and that there is little damage to roads and houses for what could have been.
Moreover, even we can say that we did not notice the 7.6 earthquake or the reply that there were 10 minutes later of 5.6 degrees. For the hours we saw later on the phone and on the camera, we sensed that we were driving right now, so we did not notice anything, although Cris and Carles confirm that in Ancud they noticed it very much, as did the rest of people with whom we are in the security zone, who all comment exactly the same.

And so we spent noon on December 25, 2016, a date that we will remember as the day we experienced a 7.6-degree earthquake and a tsunami warning that had us in suspense for a few hours, but that at the same time allowed us to check the organization and professionalism of all security forces, in addition to the kindness of all the people of Ancud, who did nothing but worry about us, offering us their homes, and reassuring us.
As we did at the time, now we can only repeat that Chile is an extraordinary country, but what makes it really incredible are its people.

And so, when it's almost 3 in the afternoon, we go back to the cars and go to the Cris and Carles cabin where we expect a fresh fish that they were preparing before the earthquake, which we have to say, makes us forget about our nerves After these last hours. Guys, how do you cook !!

After a good time of conversation and a desktop that we would have extended a few more hours, when it is 5 in the afternoon and seeing that everything is already normalized and that they have already deactivated the alert, we decided to go to Castro, where we will stay the next few days in Cabañas Alcamar, Carles and Cris are also encouraged to come over there and thus share the afternoon with all things what to see in Castro We have in mind.

Road from Ancud to Castro

On the way to Castro we begin to see some of the damage caused by the earthquake, seeing some road that is cut or somewhere with damage, something that reminds us that not only this event has remained as an anecdote, but also how fortunate we are We can feel that we don't have to regret any damage, neither we nor the rest of the people who have suffered the earthquake.
We are with Cris and Carles that we will go directly to Castro, where we will stay the next few days thanks to Cabañas Alcamar, where Nery, the owner, receives us, quite worried since she knew nothing since the earthquake and had not been able to contact us. After a few minutes to catch up and check in, he accompanies us to Cabaña La Vega, a cabin that leaves us with an open mouth and where we assure you, we would not leave in several days, since it has everything we could Looking for an accommodation, in addition to having stunning views of the sea, something that, as we will tell you later, is one of the great attractions, among many others, of staying here.

La Vega cabin. Alcamar cabins

A few minutes past 6 pm when we return to Castro, where we meet again with Carles and Cris, first approaching the Plaza de Armas, where one of the most famous places is located what to see in Castro: the San Francisco de Castro Church.

San Francisco de Castro Church

This church, one of the 16 declared World Heritage Sites in Chiloé, also has a neo-Gothic and classic style, colors that make it unique, mixing yellow with purple, creating a unique vision from the Plaza de Armas. Although what you can not miss is its interior, in which as we have read, sunny days the light enters through the windows, creating an unforgettable image.

Interior San Francisco de Castro Church

After a walk around the center and soak up the atmosphere, and you have to keep in mind that although there are many things what to see in Castro, what stands out most about this beautiful city, is its atmosphere, its streets and its walks, those that leave you with a pleasant taste, in which the color is mixed with the friendly character of its people, something that for us will be An unforgettable memory and more on a day like today.

Color. What to see in Castro

From here we approach the Gamboa bridge viewpoint, one of the best views of the palafitos, those typical constructions, which we can find in different parts of the city and that from the street seem simple normal houses, and then show us his most charming and scenic face when we see them from the back, where the piles and the sea are seen.

Palafitos from the Gamboa Bridge viewpoint

After having a good time in this area of the city, enjoying its atmosphere again, we return to the car with a new objective in mind, approaching the Church of Our Lady of Nercón, located a few meters from our accommodation, the Cabins Alcamar, which we want to know today, to extend it as much as possible trying to compensate for the hours we lost this morning.
This church is another of the World Heritage churches and is built with cypress wood, which highlights its tower, visible from the road.
The schedule we see in the Lonely Planet guide is from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and from 1:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. so today we are already out of time and we will have to settle for enjoying its exterior, by the way beautiful and without place no doubt one of the places what to see in Castro that you can't miss

Church of Our Lady of Nercón

After this brief visit and seeing that the day still holds sunny, we decided to approach Chonchi, another of the essential places in Chiloé, which we plan to visit tomorrow, but that we are moving forward to be able to make a brief visit today with Wetravel.cat.
Chonchi is about 20 minutes by car from Castro, so we planted there shortly before 8 p.m., a unique moment, since it is the moment when the sun starts to go down, giving us unique images.

Located in front of the Plaza de Armas we find the Nuestra Señora del Rosario church, another of the best known churches in Chiloé, which besides being beautiful, we recommend you visit since it is located in one of the most beautiful and most decorated villages from Chiloé.

Chonchi Church

After this visit we approach the pier, Chonchi place that falls in love as soon as we arrive and more at this moment of the day when the light is a true gift. You just have to see the photos to realize how special this corner of Chiloé is.

Chonchi Pier

Chonchi

Sunset in Chonchi

After a good time enjoying the place, between conversations and silences that do nothing but capture the moment, we decide when it is past nine o'clock that the time has come to return to Castro, where today, Christmas day, no We have too many options for dinner, since most restaurants are closed, so we have to settle for The Compass of the Body located in the Plaza de Armas where we say goodbye to a day full of anecdotes, good times, good company and a scare that probably let's never forget, but that has only reminded us how fortunate and privileged we are.