3 DAYS IN AO NANG, THE DOOR TO THE SEA OF KRABI

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On our trip through southern Thailand in 2012 we had already passed through Railay and its impressive landscapes. In addition to discovering its vertical rocks and mixing with lots of Spanish climbers that go up and down, we find a treasure as special as easy to find ... the massaman curry! And it is that until then we did not know of its existence, then we would realize that it is usually in the letters of all Thai restaurants (perhaps with hunger we always stayed in the first leaves, which means that we did not leave fried rice and padthai).

Joe, I don't know how we do it but we always end up talking about food ... Anyway, on the coast of Krabi we not only find an absolutely delicious gastronomy, but a perfect place to spend a few days and explore very interesting islands and beaches. So we took advantage of our friend Soufianito's visit to return, and this time we stayed 3 days in Ao Nang, the most tourist area of the Krabi coast.

Well ... not too true. As a base for excursions and knowing the entire coast of Krabi it is perfect: it has a lot of accommodation and cheap, there are lots of restaurants for all budgets, it has a day and night atmosphere, enjoys long and relatively clean beaches (and not They are ugly, as in other urban beaches, they are not a pass either), massage centers, tourism agencies every 15 meters, Muay Thai nights (although they are not in Ao Nang, there is transportation from there to the stadium included in the packages) ... Anyway, so seen is a fun area to stay.

The bad? The usual: when tourism arrives at a place everything changes, local people become more pillage and unfriendly and it is more complicated to feel authenticity. You are one of the rest, mixed between twenty-something shirtless and Chinese groups. While we have to recognize that Ao Nang has not been the most over-exploited place in Thailand where we have been, so well, let's say it has a passable level. We also find nice and hardworking people.

Ao Nang Beach is located about 15km from Krabi and about 25km from Krabi Airport.

We came from Bangkok on a flight to Krabi. Being three we prefer book a taxi online That would be waiting for us at the airport. We did it with the web krabicab.com and everything perfect. We were picked up by a woman with an impeccable little Toyota. Also after booking we contacted her by WhatsApp and she answered quickly (+66 89 289 6233). The price for the journey Krabi Airport - Ao Nang Beach is 550THB.

But there is also option to do it with public transport. In Krabi airport there is a bus that leaves in Krabi or in Ao Nang by 150THB per person.

If you arrive by bus to Krabi, to get to Ao Nang you will have to take a van shared by 50THB (eye, it depends on where you take this van, on our first trip we had to make change from one to another and the price was 15 + 50 ).

Although the most interesting thing about Ao Nang is to hire an excursion around the islands, there are other harvests that can be done here during your stay:

- Positions night street food: At the crossroads of the main road with Khlong Hang Rd some nights are put street stalls at night where you have spectacular dinner. Little fish on the barbecue, skewers, soups, meats ... everything! There are several stalls with tables behind, the place is quite shabby and dirty, but if you want to eat well at a good price, it is perfect!

- Take a teh tarik and a rotate in a very nice position next to the Relax Bar.

- Enjoy of the gastronomic offer. Ao Nang is full of restaurants at a good price, so it is a good opportunity to eat some barbecue fish, pizzas at 150THB… And of course, if you want to party, there are also places for it!

- Make the monkey trail to get to the Centara resort beach, possibly the best beach in Ao Nang, at the east end. The road passes through a jungle area where a community of monkeys lives. They go to your air, so don't worry they don't attack. They also go down to the nearest part of the beach, if you wear here be careful not to have your glasses or something stolen! At the end of the beach there is a perfect pier to stick your dips. You have to register upon arrival and it is free.

- Throughout the afternoon there are some vans circling to pick up people and take them to muay thai fighting. We have no idea of the quality of the fighting or the price, but come on, we don't think it's a big deal, it looks like being a tourist.

Longtail boat on Ao Nang beach

Clear! It is the best thing you can do on the days you do not have hired excursion. Railay is a peninsula accessible only by boat. There are many accommodations spread over its four beaches, although they are more expensive than those of its neighboring Ao Nang (which is why we prefer to stay in the latter).

How to get to Railay

On the beach of Ao Nang there are two points from where the long aft boats leave for Railay. They stop at Tonsai, Railay West, Ao Phranang and Railay East. The price of the ticket is 100THB.

What to do in Railay

- Obviously, take a bath. The best beach to bathe on the Railay Peninsula is Ao Phranang, although Railay West beach is also good.

- Go up to Viewpoint. Although on many websites it says that it is a simple path, it really is not, it is not even a path! To start, if you go from Ao Pranang, you have to climb the mountain side by grabbing roots and ropes and putting your feet on sharp rocks. Let's see, if you're more or less fit and you're not a true tarugo, it can be done calmly and taking time. The first section is the most difficult, then it improves something. In about 15-20 minutes you reach a fork, on the right the road goes down towards the lagoon (It seems that this path is really complicated, according to the pints of the people who climbed from there, with mud to the ears, and by their comments), and if you continue on the left you will reach the viewpoint, which is no more That a clear open in the vegetation from where there are beautiful views.

- Visit the cave with a thousand penises. Well, the cave has the name of the beach: “Phranang Cave". It is at the end of the beach, you will find it easily.

- Rent a kayak And explore the bay. The price is around 100THB per hour.

Phranang Cave

Views from the viewpoint

Ascent to the viewpoint

Railay beaches

There are four beaches where you can stay or go for a swim in Railay. Closer farther from Ao Nang are:

Tonsai: the backpacker beach, where we stayed the first time. The environment is amazing, with vertical walls that are born from the beach itself, the perfect place for climbers. The accommodations are cheaper than the rest of the beaches and there are several restaurants also cheap. The weak point is its beach, although it is not ugly, it is almost non-existent and when the tide rises it is practically a fine thread of sand. It joins Railay West on a walkable road only when there is low tide (beware, always see shoes, because the stones are extremely sharp. We noticed when we saw a huge pool of blood from the foot of some kind or too adventurous type).

Railay west: It is, next to Railay East, where most of the accommodations are concentrated. The beach is very long and very wide and the water is beautiful, although it is not spectacular. There are many bars, bars, shops and even ATM. The accommodations here are somewhat more expensive.

Ao Phranang: It is the most exclusive beach, with luxury accommodation, the Rayavadee. The beach is beautiful, in front of it rises an attractive rock in the sea. At its southern end is the cave and from here comes the path that leads to the viewpoint and the lagoon.

Railay East: It is the part that has the ugliest beach, especially at low tide, but it has good quite affordable accommodations and some with very cool mountain views. A peaceful place. It joins Railay West by an inland path in 5 minutes.

Tonsai Beach

Railay West Beach

Phranang Beach, Railay

We only made one, that of Hong Island, with the occasional stop. In the end we paid 500THB per person. Meal included (we "made mistakes" and first ate with another group and then with ours). All agencies have the same excursions, it is a matter of bargaining to see which one comes out better in price. A good option is to wait, because in the evening they usually take 50% discounts for excursions the next day. Oh and the Tourist Information Center is just another agency, but in a cool office with more expensive prices, forget about asking.

We did it with the Andaman Krabi Travel and Tour company. There are actually several different companies and each one sells its excursions in the thousand and one city agencies. They leave from the pier Nopparat-Thara Pier and include transport to the port, excursion, food (basic) and water and snorkeling glasses.

Typical excursions from Krabi and Ao Nang are:

4 islands excursion: usually includes the islands of Chicken Island (snorkeling), Tub Island (beach) these two islands are connected by a sand tongue when the tide is low, Poda Island (beach and surroundings) and Phra Nang (in Railay). Approx 500THB

7 islands excursion: to the previous ones is added some other island like Tang Ming Island (snorkel) or Si Island (snorkel). It lasts until late at night and includes lunch and dinner. Approx 800THB.

Hong Islands excursion: stopping at Daeng Island (snorkeling), Lading Island (beach), Hong Island (beach and surroundings), Hong Lagoon (a lagoon inside a bay). Approx 500THB

Excursion to PhiPhi Islands: with a stop in Bamboo island (beach), Viking Cave (cave), Maya Bay (the impressive bay where the famous beach “The Beach” was recorded), Phi Phi Don (island) and the occasional snorkeling stop. This tour takes a little more time and is more expensive. Approx 1,000THB

Hong Island Beach

Eye, agency prices usually give them without the entrance to the islands. Yes, there is entrance for some island. For example to go to Hong Island, you have to pay 300THB, or Poda Island 400THB or Maya Bay 400THB. The boatman is paid and he is in charge of paying the fees, you can ask for a payment receipt if you want…

One option is to go directly to one of the islands near Ao Nang and spend the day there. You can negotiate with the boatman the price of i / v, it will probably be cheaper than any tour. The good thing about this option is that you don't depend on a group, on schedules, on being taken from one place to another ... you have free time to do what you want. The worst is obviously that you don't see other islands and beaches, but honestly, they are all quite similar.