If it is true that the eyes are the mirror of the soul, Berat is the soul of Albania. Wherever you go in Berat you will have the feeling of be observed while watching. It is rare, usually when we visit a city we are the ones who look at it from top to bottom (that if the streets are beautiful, that if it is dirty, that if it is entertaining, that if you like it or not ...) but in Berat the opposite happens: The city, with its thousands of eyes, does not stop looking at you and every step you will notice how Berat is spying on you, and imagine it asking: “Which of my streets will they choose, in which corner they will take a photo, how far they will be willing to climb” .
Berat's is not a critical look, it is rather curious, snoopyOf those who have fun seeing us, tourists who hallucinate in the 'other Europe', we were amazed at it.
In our wandering we discover a piece of her skin and she lets us be delighted, sure of her charms. At every step we discover another piece of her soul and she lets us be delighted, sure of her purity. Berat is a woman, it could not be otherwise.
THE 3 FACES OF BERAT
If it is clear that Berat has a thousand eyes, what you still do not know is that it has 3 faces: Gorica, Mangalem and Kalaja.
Gorica: the less touristy neighborhood and therefore ... the most true. Gorica is the Christian soul of Berat, separated by the Osum River from its two 'sisters'. It is essential to walk through its streets and contemplate the beautiful views of the surroundings.
Mangalem: a fascinating neighborhood, full of 'the houses of a thousand windows', mosques and an atmosphere of another time. Do not miss a visit to the Sultan Mosque, the oldest in Albania.
Kajala: here the protagonist is the castle, which from above (still without eyes) observes everything that happens around it. Be prepared to climb a few steep streets (really steep!) But the views deserve the effort. Ok, I said it: the protagonist is the castle but the secondary actors (the houses in the neighborhood and the many churches) are the perfect companions.
The Modern berat It is also interesting, with a long avenue full of terraces and cafes and a beautiful central square. It is a good place to look for a local restaurant and try the specialties of the place.
The next morning, after a breakfast with spectacular views, we board a bus to a new destination: Macedonia, but this is another story.
USEFUL INFO
- How to get to Berat from Tirana by bus: It cost us LEK 400 and took less than 3 hours. We took one that left at 10.15 a.m. We leave you a map of the South Tirana Station:
- Where to sleep in Berat: We spent the night at the Hava Baci Guest house, for € 20, recommended. In the morning they prepare breakfast (about € 2) which they serve on the terrace overlooking the city. They serve tea / coffee, fruit, cheese, bread and jam.
