PHONSAVAN: HMONG NEW YEAR'S EVE BETWEEN JUGS

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As good lovers of mystery, a stop at Phonsavan to contemplate the “Plains of the Jugs”Was mandatory. But the first mystery was presented to us as soon as we arrived in the city when, looking for accommodation, the hotels were either full, or their prices were in the clouds. In the fifth or sixth hotel where we asked, they explained that they are celebrating the hmong new year's eve! And that would last all week ... we are managing! In the end we stayed in one of the worst Guesthouse and one of the most expensive in all of Laos!

If you come up Phonsavan It is for a single reason: Plains of Jars, or "Plains of the Jugs". There are several esplanades where a kind of stone cubes are preserved, whose origin and purpose are unknown with certainty. They are in the surroundings of the city, so to get there we have no choice but to rent a semi-automatic Chinese motorcycle! Let them go away because we are a danger! In the end it is not so complicated, and seeing it now, it is much more fun than a scooter (the Medina was right when he told me about the motorcycle with gears).

During our visit we saw many groups of tourists, but something special: the features are the locals but they speak perfect English, they dress more modern, they carry cameras and last generation mobiles ... One of them stopped to chat with us and explained that they were a group of Laotians who during the secret war moved to the United States, and this was the first time they had come since they left. For many of them, like their children and grandchildren, it was their true first time in Laos.

In the afternoon we approach the center MAG (Mines Advisory Group), an organism created for the detection and elimination of unexploded shells, launched by the Americans between 1964 and 1973. Watching the exhibition we realize how hard it was for them to live those years, and how difficult it is for them to forget about all that, because there are still thousands of unexploded bombs threatening the fields, and preventing the normal development of the country. In large numbers, the bombs dropped by the US secretly throughout the territory of Laos was 1.3 million, of which it is estimated that 30% are not yet detonated (they are called UXO: Unexploded Ordnance). Today they continue killing and mutilating many Laotians who work in the field and find them by surprise.

It is called the Secret War because for the United States it never existed (one more proof of the brutality and double standards of this country). The purpose was to cut the communication routes that supplied the North Vietnamese troops in the Vietnam War, the famous Ho Chi Minh route. We understand that it is the area with the highest concentration of bombings by extension worldwide.

At night, to shake a little the discouragement of the seen, we approach the fair They have set up for the end of the year celebrations. It's like the april laotian fair, with food stalls, stages, bouncy castles, candy, ferris wheel, game booths ... and even a few cars of choche! I could not resist ... Although among all the attractions, there was a very special ... ourselves! All children and not so children looked at us in amazement ... but heck, if this place is very touristy! Or so we thought ...

Transport. How to get to Phonsavan?

We have arrived from Luang Prabang with minivan for 120,000 kips, about 8 hours and regular road, with many bumpy curves ... uhi!
We rent the motorcycle at 70,000 kips on the main street.

Accommodation. Where to sleep in Phonsavan?

After going around a lot, we didn't stay in the Sabaidee GH, where for a double they asked us for 80,000 kips (we understand that it usually costs half! but being a new year hmong ...)